Phidippus care sheet ( Regius, Comatus and Bidentatus

Heating 

Although your purchased spider was most likely bred in East London, these lovely spiders originate from far warmer areas such as Florida or the Bahamas so it’s always a good idea to look into weather temps in those regions and to try to replicate it as closely as possible. A common misconception is that if you’re warm enough then so is your spider. I’ve been lucky enough to visit Florida several times and it bears zero resemblance to a winter in Bognor Regis or Scotland. In the wild the temps in the summer months can reach over 30c and humidity levels of 75%+, but spiders can choose to hide away in shaded, cooler areas, or to bask/hunt in the sun. As we cannot accommodate those differences in an enclosure, we keep these species here between 24-26c, and although they will tolerate lower short-term temps, they will not thrive long term much lower than this. Night time drops should be no lower than 21c.

For example, today’s temps for comparison;

Bahamas = 26c 

UK = 5c with an overnight drop to -1c

Misting once a day (more if needed in summer) is essential for your spider to drink and provide the humidity that they need.

There are several ways to heat spiders’ enclosures and some will suit more people than others.

Heat mats

I personally use a heat mat and thermostat, the reason for this is that I live in a wooden house so it’s super cold overnight and heat lamps just do not work for me living here. Whilst the central heating is on my heat mats will usually click off as the additional heating isn’t required, but overnight when the heating is off/lower my mats automatically click on so it’s just an easy and cost effective option for me.

I place the heat mat on the back of the enclosure and tape in place with thermostat probe inside enclosure (if possible)

Heat lamps 

Some people choose to use heat lamps to heat enclosures but just be mindful when these are switched off overnight and if temps drop dramatically especially during UK winter months, this could be an issue. Each house varies so would be for you to check into night time temps in your household. 

Space heating / heated rooms 

These can work well if you have many spiders/inverts/reptiles and I personally do have one room heated for this. It’s kept at a constant 25c every day, but realistically for someone to heat an entire room for a spider or two this would work out pretty expensive and also extremely uncomfortable for everyone else in the room. I often need fresh air breaks when working in my “ Trop room” and it’s the only place my dogs refuse to follow me. 

Enclosures 

There are many types of enclosures that can be used for jumpers, these spiders are best kept in arboreal setups with plenty of ventilation and light. The size of enclosure needed would depend on the species of your new pet as some grow to a larger size than others. For example, an adult Phidippus comatus reaches approximately 1cm so would be more than happy in a smaller sized set up. In comparison an adult Phidippus regius Bahamas can reach a far larger size and require more room. The best thing to do is to ask your breeder maximum sizes on spiders and work from that. Obviously younger spiders (slings) will require smaller, grow on housing before moving into anything too large.

Natural setups versus Toy housing

It’s always best to keep spiders how nature intended as much as possible whilst in captivity. These spiders are here for our pleasure and we have a responsibility to provide the best care for them, so that being said I will always encourage natural and if possible bioactive enclosures. A simple layer of substrate will help with humidity in an enclosure, which in turn also helps spiders to moult safely. Live plants can be added such as Fittonia, Pothos, Tradescantia and live moss, these are the most common used in the UK hobby but any reptile/invert safe plant can be used. If buying from garden centres please remember fertilisers and pesticides may be present, so cleaning plant and roots before replanting would be beneficial. Alternatively just order from a reptile centre that supplies plants free from chemicals (safest option). 

Springtails and isopods can be added to natural setups which in turn feed on any debris left from your spider. I occasionally add some fish flakes as an added supplement to the clean up crews food. You will then have a tiny slice of nature in your home. 

Ornament type enclosures 

These seem to have become a common way to house jumping spiders in the last year or two, and while some can be beautiful to look at, can they meet all your spider’s husbandry needs? 

I have set one up previously as an “experiment” with no spider present, but I struggled to hold a consistent humidity. When misting, things became soaked in water because the Astroturf did not absorb and hold the water as substrate and moss do. If using this style of housing it would be beneficial to ask your seller on how to meet your spider's needs in these. If a spider was to fall in these enclosures, they could land and injure themselves as the majority of them consist mainly of hard objects. 

Don’t get me wrong, it’s very cute seeing a jumper sat on a plastic mushroom or swing set but nothing can compare to a spider sat on a lovely begonia leaf to me. 

Personal preference but just be cautious of meeting husbandry needs.

Lighting

I use simple cheap LED strips on my enclosures as these provide enough bright light for my spiders to hunt and also for my plants. Desk lamps can be used but just be aware jumpers prefer bright light during the day. UVB lights can be used but are not necessary for jumpers. 

Feeding

Jumpers generally prefer flying prey so houseflies, green bottles, blue bottles or moths are a great option to feed. These can be safely left in spiders enclosures as they have no true mouthparts to potentially harm your spider. Do not feed wild flys/prey as these can contain parasites etc. The occasional wax worm treat is always readily accepted and any left over will pupate into moths. Appropriately sized locusts will also be taken by larger jumpers, I personally avoid crickets due to them often carrying grain mites, these are not directly harmful to your spider but can become a nuisance if an infestation occurs. 

Household hazards

Chemicals such as air fresheners, deodorants, candles, fly sprays and cleaning products can kill your spider, just be aware of what is being used in the room your spider is kept in. 

Flea treatments of any kind or pet calming plugins can also potentially kill your spider, if these products are needed relocate your spider to a safe area whilst in use. 

Keep enclosures in a draught free area and away from direct sunlight, natural light is great but direct sunlight will be magnified in an enclosure and can kill